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Kith & Kin, which took over the Paragon Dundee space in December, takes a handful of cues from the Southern-inspired menu that initially worked at its predecessor. Namely, a great burger, staples of the South like skillet cornbread and old-fashioned favorites like green bean casserole.

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The pizza at this new fast-casual spot is serviceable and mostly better than the pizza from big delivery chains, like Domino’s or Pizza Hut. But each time, I wished for more of what’s pictured on the restaurant’s website — deeply browned crust with lots of bubbles — and I did not always get it.

Sarah Baker Hansen


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