Pasta with mushrooms: It was the default vegetarian dish in restaurants for probably far too long. Now it’s entirely possible to eat out without ever feeling the need to declare a dietary restriction if all you’re doing is avoiding meat and seafood.

Exactly none of that progress means that pasta with mushrooms has lost its appeal.

At Felidia, Lidia Bastianich’s flagship New York City restaurant, it’s a year-round classic, with the mushrooms varying by season but often including beautiful wild specimens — chanterelles, morels and porcini — with, of course, freshly made pappardelle.

At home, on any given weeknight, I’m after something different. So I streamlined her recipe to use high-quality dried pasta and a mix of good old cremini and shiitake, available any time of the year. .

Pappardelle With Mixed Mushrooms

30 minutes

4 to 6 servings

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1½ pounds mixed fresh mushrooms (shiitake, oyster and/or cremini), trimmed and sliced

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup no-salt-added vegetable broth

12 ounces dried egg pappardelle

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.

While the water is heating, in a large skillet on medium-high, heat the ¼ cup of olive oil until shimmering. Add about half the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they begin to wilt and make space in the pan; then add the remaining mushrooms. Cook, stirring often, until they give up their liquid; then increase the heat to boil the liquid away and caramelize the mushrooms, 8 to 10 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium, add the butter and let it melt. Stir in the garlic, rosemary, salt and red pepper flakes just until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the vegetable broth and simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to its lowest setting and cover to keep warm.

Meanwhile, add the pappardelle to the boiling water, and cook until al dente, 1 to 2 minutes less than the package directions. When the pasta is ready, use tongs to transfer it to the sauce, reserving the pasta water. Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with the parsley and toss to coat, adding a little reserved pasta water if the pan seems dry.

Remove the skillet from the heat, and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Toss and serve hot, passing more grated cheese at the table.

Nutrition (based on 6 servings): Calories: 410; Total Fat: 17 g; Saturated Fat: 5 g; Cholesterol: 45 mg; Sodium: 190 mg; Carbohydrates: 49 g; Dietary Fiber: 4 g; Sugars: 3 g; Protein: 14 g

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