of crystallized ginger.

Serves 12 (makes 1½ quarts)

4 medium-size ripe peaches, pitted and coarsely chopped

1 cup sugar

3/8 ounce freeze-dried peaches (½ cup)

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

22/3 cups whole milk

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 ounces (4 tablespoons) cream cheese, at room temperature

1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1½ cups heavy cream

¼ cup light corn syrup (see headnote)

3 ounces amaretti cookies (about 26), crushed (about 1 cup)

3 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger

Combine the chopped peaches and ¼ cup of the sugar in a large (4-quart) saucepan. Cook over medium to medium-high heat to maintain a gentle bubbling, stirring frequently with a spatula, until the fruit has mostly broken down and turned almost jammy, about 20 minutes. Use the spatula to gently mash the fruit until fairly smooth. Cool slightly.

Grind the freeze-dried peaches in a food processor to a fine powder; some larger pieces are OK. Add the cooked peaches and lemon juice; process to form a purée. Pass the purée through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. You should have ¾ to 1 cup strained purée. Cool completely.

Whisk about 2 tablespoons of the milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to form a smooth slurry.

Whisk together the cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth.

Combine the remaining milk, the cream, the remaining ¾ cup sugar and the corn syrup in the saucepan, over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil, reducing the heat as needed to make sure the mixture does not boil over; cook for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat just long enough to gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry; return the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for about 1 minute, stirring with a spatula, until slightly thickened, with a consistency a little thicker than heavy cream. Remove from the heat.

Gradually whisk the hot-milk mixture into the cream cheese, until smooth, then whisk in the strained peach puree. Cover the bowl and refrigerate it until thoroughly chilled, at least overnight.

When you are ready to churn, assemble your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's directions and turn it on. Pour in the chilled ice cream base and spin until it's thick and creamy — about the consistency of softserve ice cream.

Meanwhile, sprinkle about one-quarter of the crushed Amaretti cookies and crystallized ginger onto the bottom of your final storage container. Pack the ice cream into the storage container, alternating it with additional layers of the amaretti and ginger, ending with a layer of the add-ins on top; do not stir (to retain the layering). Press a sheet of parchment paper directly against the surface, and seal with a tight-fitting lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, for at least 4 hours.

From The Washington Post's Becky Krystal.

Kahlua Ice Cream With Dulce de Leche and Espresso Beans

This ice cream taps into the spirit of a typical coffee shop drink, but with a decidedly evening vibe thanks to the addition of Kahlúa. The coffee liqueur infuses the base, while chopped chocolate-covered espresso beans and pockets of dulce de leche contribute different textures and pops of flavor.

We've given a range for the amount of liqueur. The full ¼ cup made for a powerful though pleasant boozy flavor and a softer-setting ice cream. Even if you go for the lesser amount, you'll still taste the Kahlúa coming through. If you don't want the alcohol, try swapping in (cooled) strong brewed coffee or espresso. Don't be tempted to leave out the corn syrup. It's less sweet than granulated sugar and keeps the churned ice cream from getting icy.

Serves 12 (makes 1½ quarts)

2 2/3 cups whole milk

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 ounces (4 tablespoons) cream cheese, at room temperature

1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1½ cups heavy cream

¾ cup sugar

¼ cup light corn syrup

2 tablespoons to ¼ cup coffee-flavored liqueur, such as Kahlua (may substitute strongly brewed/ cooled coffee or espresso)

½ cup chocolate-covered espresso beans, coarsely chopped Heaping ½ cup dulce de leche (half of one 13.4-ounce can)

Whisk about 2 tablespoons of the milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to form a smooth slurry.

Whisk together the cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth.

Combine the remaining milk, the heavy cream, sugar and corn syrup in a large (4-quart) saucepan, over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil, reducing the heat as needed to make sure the mixture does not boil over; cook for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat just long enough to gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry; return the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for about 1 minute, stirring with a spatula until slightly thickened, with a consistency a little thicker than heavy cream. Remove from the heat.

Gradually whisk the hot-milk mixture into the cream cheese until smooth. Cover the bowl; refrigerate it until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight. After the base has been chilled, whisk in the Kahlúa until thoroughly incorporated.

When you are ready to churn, assemble your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's directions and turn it on. Pour in the chilled ice cream base and spin until it's thick and creamy — about the consistency of softserve ice cream.

Meanwhile, sprinkle about a fourth of the espresso beans onto the bottom of your final storage container. Spray a small disher (scoop, or two tableware spoons) with cooking oil spray, in order to dollop small mounds (about 1-teaspoon size) of the dulce de leche on the bottom of the container as well.

Pack the ice cream into the storage container, alternating it with additional layers of the espresso beans and dulce de leche, ending with a layer of the add-ins on top; do not stir (to retain the layering). Press a sheet of parchment paper directly against the surface, and seal with a tight-fitting lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.

Nutrition information per serving: 250 calories, 3 g protein, 21 g carbohydrates, 16 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 55 mg cholesterol, 95 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 14 g sugar.

From The Washington Post's Becky Krystal.

Chocolate Ice Cream Base

This creamy, almost chewy base is packed with cocoa flavor, but because it's a mellow chocolate made milky with the addition of evaporated milk, it will play well without overwhelming any add-ins. Unlike a traditional French custard-based ice cream, this recipe is egg-free and relies on evaporated milk for both flavor and body.

Don't be tempted to leave out the corn syrup. It's less sweet than granulated sugar and keeps the ice cream from getting icy.

10 servings (makes 1 ¼ quarts)

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate (55 to 70 percent cocoa)

1 ½ cups heavy cream

1 ½ cups (12-ounce can) evaporated milk

¾ cup sugar

¼ cup light corn syrup

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder ¼ teaspoon salt

Whisk about 2 tablespoons of the milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to form a smooth slurry.

Chop the chocolate and put it in a medium bowl.

Combine the remaining milk, the cream, evaporated milk, sugar and corn syrup in a large (4-quart) saucepan, over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and add the cocoa, whisking until it is incorporated, reducing the heat as needed to make sure the mixture does not boil over; cook for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat just long enough to gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry; return the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for about 1 minute, stirring with a spatula until slightly thickened, with a consistency a little thicker than heavy cream. Remove from the heat.

Gradually whisk the hot-milk mixture into the chocolate. Add the salt and whisk until the chocolate is melted and incorporated. Cover the bowl and refrigerate it until thoroughly chilled, at least overnight. (At this point, you can whisk in flavor add-ins, such as extracts or liqueurs.)

When you are ready to churn, assemble your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's directions and turn it on. Pour in the chilled ice cream base and spin until it's thick and creamy — about the consistency of softserve ice cream.

Pack the ice cream into a storage container, alternating it with layers of your solid add-ins of choice, if using; do not stir (to retain the layering). Press a sheet of parchment paper directly against the surface, and seal with an airtight lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.

Nutrition information per serving: calories: 310; total fat: 18 g; saturated fat: 13 g; cholesterol: 65 mg; sodium: 160 mg; carbohydrates: 33 g; dietary fiber: 2 g; sugars: 24 g; protein: 4 g.

Adapted from "Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams at Home," Artisan, 2011; and "Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream Desserts," Artisan, 2014, both by Jeni Britton Bauer.

S'mores Ice Cream

We turned a campfire favorite into a frozen treat that will be just as welcome on a hot summer night. Graham cracker pieces toasted in butter help channel that outdoor-toasted s'mores flavor.

We found that marshmallow fluff worked extraordinarily well, instead of marshmallows, because it stayed soft while frozen and created enticing pockets of marshmallow throughout the ice cream. Don't be tempted to leave out the corn syrup. It's less sweet than granulated sugar and keeps the churned ice cream from getting icy.

Serves 12 (makes 1½ quarts)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 ½ ounces graham crackers, coarsely broken into pieces (about 1 cup)

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate (55 to 70 percent cocoa)

1 ½ cups heavy cream

1 ½ cups (12-ounce can) evaporated milk

¾ cup sugar

¼ cup light corn syrup

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1 cup marshmallow fluff

Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the graham cracker pieces and stir to coat; toast them until dark golden brown and fragrant, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pieces to a plate to cool completely.

Whisk about 2 tablespoons of the milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to form a smooth slurry.

Chop the chocolate and put it in a medium bowl.

Combine the remaining milk, the cream, evaporated milk, sugar and corn syrup in a large (4-quart) saucepan, over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and add the cocoa, whisking until it is incorporated, reducing the heat as needed to make sure the mixture does not boil over; cook for 4 minutes. Remove from the heat just long enough to gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry; return the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for about 1 minute, stirring with a spatula until slightly thickened, with a consistency a little thicker than heavy cream. Remove from the heat.

Gradually whisk the hot-milk mixture into the chocolate. Add the salt and whisk until the chocolate is melted and incorporated.

Cover the bowl and refrigerate it until thoroughly chilled, at least overnight.

When you are ready to churn, assemble your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's directions and turn it on. Pour in the chilled ice cream base and spin until it's thick and creamy — about the consistency of softserve ice cream.

Meanwhile, sprinkle about a fourth of the graham cracker pieces onto the bottom of your storage container. Spray a small disher (scoop, or two tableware spoons) with cooking oil spray, and dollop small mounds (about 1 teaspoon) of the Marshmallow Fluff on the bottom of the container as well.

Once the ice cream is done churning, pack it into the storage container, alternating it with additional layers of graham crackers and fluff, ending with a layer of the add-ins on top; do not stir (to retain the layering). Press a sheet of parchment paper directly against the surface, and seal with an airtight lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.

Nutrition information per serving: calories: 310; total fat: 16 g; saturated fat: 12 g; cholesterol: 55 mg; sodium: 130 mg; total carbohydrates: 37 g; dietary fiber: 0 g; sugar: 25 g; protein: 4 g.

From The Washington Post's Becky Krystal.

Vegan Coconut Ice Cream Base

This vegan ice cream base is smooth and creamy and more than a dairy-free consolation prize. We found that adding cornstarch helped improve the texture and cut down on iciness in the finished ice cream.

You can use this recipe as a blank slate for your preferred ice cream flavor.

Serves 6 (makes 3 cups)

2 ½ cups canned coconut milk, preferably all-natural

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/3 cup unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic

¼ cup agave nectar, preferably organic

Pinch sea salt

Whisk about 2 tablespoons of the coconut milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to form a smooth slurry.

Combine the remaining coconut milk, sugar, agave nectar and sea salt in a large (4-quart) saucepan, using an immersion (stick) blender or whisk to thoroughly incorporate. Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat, then remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Return the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for about 1 minute, stirring with a heatproof spatula, until slightly thickened, with a consistency close to heavy cream. Remove from the heat. (At this point, you can whisk in flavor add-ins, such as fruit purees.)

Pour the mixture into a container, seal and refrigerate for at least a few hours, and preferably overnight.

When you are ready to churn, assemble your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's directions and turn it on. Pour in the chilled ice cream base and spin until it's thick and creamy — about the consistency of softserve ice cream.

Pack the ice cream into a storage container, alternating it with layers of your add-ins of choice, if using; do not stir (to retain the layering). Press a sheet of parchment paper directly against the surface, and seal with an airtight lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.

Nutrition information per serving: calories: 220; total fat: 14 g; saturated fat: 10 g; cholesterol: 0 mg; sodium: 100 mg; carbohydrates: 21 g; sugars: 20 g; protein: 0 g.

Adapted from "Incredible Vegan Ice Cream: Decadent, All-Natural Flavors Made with Coconut Milk," by Deena Jalal, Page Street Publishing, 2019; cornstarch slurry method from "Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream Desserts" by Jeni Britton Bauer. Artisan, 2014.

Vegan Chai Ice Cream

Vibrant chai spices are an ideal way to flavor this creamy, rich and dairy-free ice cream base. We found that adding cornstarch helped improve the texture and cut down on iciness of the finished ice cream.

Serves 6 (makes 3 cups)

2 ½ cups canned coconut milk, preferably all-natural

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/3 cup unrefined cane sugar, preferably organic

¼ cup agave nectar, preferably organic Pinch sea salt

9 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1-inch piece peeled fresh ginger root, grated (about 1 tablespoon)

5 whole cloves

10 whole black peppercorns

3 tablespoons loose black tea leaves

½ cup sliced almonds, toasted

Whisk about 2 tablespoons of the coconut milk with the cornstarch in a small bowl to form a smooth slurry.

Combine the remaining coconut milk, sugar, agave nectar and sea salt in a large (4-quart) saucepan, using an immersion (stick) blender or whisk to thoroughly incorporate. Stir in the cardamom pods, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and peppercorns. Bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat, then remove from the heat, cover and steep for 45 minutes.

Return the coconut milk mixture to a boil, then remove from the heat and stir in the tea leaves. Cover and steep for 15 minutes. Pass the mixture through a finemesh strainer into a bowl or large measuring cup, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. Return the mixture to the saucepan.

Bring the mixture to a rolling boil again over medium-high heat, then remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Return the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring with a spatula, until slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Pour the mixture into a container, seal and refrigerate for at least a few hours, and preferably overnight.

When you are ready to churn, assemble your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's directions and turn it on. Pour in the chilled ice cream base and spin until it's thick and creamy — about the consistency of softserve ice cream.

Meanwhile, sprinkle about a third of the toasted almonds on the bottom of your storage container. Pack the ice cream into the storage container, alternating with layers of the almonds, with the last layer of almonds sprinkled on top; do not stir (to retain the layering). Press a sheet of parchment paper directly against the surface, and seal with a tight-fitting lid. Freeze in the coldest part of your freezer until firm, at least 4 hours.

Note: Toast the almonds in a small, dry skillet over medium heat for 5 to 7 minutes, until lightly browned and fragrant, shaking the pan to avoid scorching. Cool completely before using.

Nutrition information per serving: calories: 260; total fat: 18 g; saturated fat: 10 g; cholesterol: 0 mg; sodium: 100 mg; total carbohydrates: 23 g; dietary fiber: 0 g; sugar: 20 g; protein: 2 g.

Chai method adapted from a recipe on SeriousEats.com.

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