HOT BITES

Hot Bites are compiled by food critic Sarah Baker Hansen from the past two months of dining reviews.

LO-LO'S CHICKEN & WAFFLES

7051 Ames Ave. 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.$$

Menu: Chicken and waffles along with seafood selections and soul food sides.

Our take: While the chicken and waffles were decent, the rest of Lo-Lo's menu, especially the fish, needs work.

Try this: The fried chicken and cinnamony waffles that are the restaurant's namesake are also its best dish.

KOREA KING

4719 S. 96th St. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday.$

Menu: Korean classics.

Our take: The menu includes the Korean basics, like kimchi, bulgogi and bibimbap, but lots of other more adventurous choices for diners not yet familiar with Korean cuisine.

Try this: Jab-chae, a dish of room-temperature cellophane noodles served in a soy-based sauce, and duk-mandoo kuk, a brothy soup that includes dumplings and Korean rice cakes, are good jumping off points for diners unfamiliar with Korean food. A kimchi pancake proved an excellent, spicy starter.

ENZO' SITALIAN IN FLORENCE

8510 N. 30th St. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, 3 to 10 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday.$$

Menu: Old-school Italian steakhouse done in a modern and intimate way.

Our take: Omaha loves an old-school steakhouse, and chef Enzo Zurlo is creating classics that the neighborhood crowd already loves.

Try this: A shrimp scampi was citrusy but still buttery with large, tender shrimp; a Bolognese pasta had a wonderfully rich and chunky sauce.

UGLY DUCK RAMEN

3902 Farnam St., inside Nite Owl. 11 a.m. Sundays until the ramen runs out.$

Menu: Ramen is the star of this pop-up restaurant's show.

Our take: Omaha has gone batty for ramen, and we can see why. Ugly Duck is making its bowls from scratch each week, offering a new, creative take every time.

Try this: The ramen menu changes weekly. The pork belly pancake is a staple and worth trying.

BENSON BREWERY

6059 Maple St. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; on Saturday, the kitchen closes from 3 to 4 p.m.$-$$

Menu: Local craft beers paired with the kind of food the brews long for.

Our take: When it opened two years ago, Benson Brewery lacked the menu to match its atmosphere. Now the brewery has hit its stride.

Try this: The poutine and a savory duck shepherd's pie were original, tasty takes on classic pub food.

PITCH PIZZERI A WEST

17808 Burke St. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

REVIEW OF THE WEEK

Saturday and Sunday.$$-$$$

Menu: A carbon-copy of the midtown location in Dundee, especially atmosphere-wise, the menus are the same, too.

Our take: While the new owners nailed the look and feel of Pitch, the food wasn't quite the same. A few dishes suffered from a lack of basic seasoning, and the pizza crust seemed different than what we remembered.

Try this: The Doc pizza — one I'd never had — pleased with homemade sausage and goat cheese.

Le Voltaire

569 N. 155th Plaza. 5:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Lunch Thursdays and Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.$$$-$$$$

Menu: French classics.

Our take: You won't find innovative cuisine at Le Voltaire, but you will find traditional French food almost always cooked to a T. The wine list is worth exploration.

Try this: French classics like steak frites, creme brulee and a rustic veal sausage with a mushroom demi-glace were executed to perfection.

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