Dining Notes

PIZZA GODFATHER RETURNS, WITH COAL

Godfather's Pizza founder Willy Theisen's long-awaited new pizza concept is taking shape in Dundee.

Signs at 5021 Underwood Ave., former home of the Dundee Dinner Theatre, now proclaim: Pitch Coal-Fired Pizzeria.

And Theisen said Thursday that the old-school heat source will indeed fuel the two giant ovens at the new pizzeria's center. Why coal?

“Our ovens will run upwards of 900 degrees,” Theisen said. “It puts a flavor profile, a char so to speak, on the crust, which gives it a very unique taste.”

Coal burns hotter than wood and was widely used in the early 1900s, when Italian immigrants began opening pizzerias in the United States. The coal-fired ovens that set the New York pizza standard waned as kitchens switched to gas and electric ovens, cities began limiting coal emissions and the number of pizza artisans dwindled. Several new coal-fired pizzerias have cropped up across the country in recent years.

Theisen said his cozy, open-kitchen pizzeria will serve more than pizza and value-priced wines, though he declined to elaborate on the menu. He expects an early-to-mid-November opening.

Theisen opened his first Godfather's in 1973 near 99th and Q Streets. He sold the business in the mid-1980s to Pillsbury and has operated a host of other restaurants since. He said he's happy about coming full circle.

“Yeah, I'm back to slinging pizzas,” he said. “This is probably one of the most exciting projects I've worked on. I created it. I think people will really enjoy the flavor profiles. And it's one of one at this point.”

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MIDTOWN DON CARMELO'S CLOSED

The Don Carmelo's near 35th and Farnam Streets has closed.

A note on the door Monday called the closure temporary and “due to change of ownership and maintenance.” It said the restaurant will be reopening “asap.” Would-be diners and employees of nearby businesses said the pizzeria has been closed since at least Oct. 2.

Neither Vincenzina “Vivian” Magistro, the restaurant's owner, nor her son Giovanni “John” Magistro, its sometime operator, could be reached. Home and restaurant phone numbers were not in service. John Magistro did not return messages left on his cell phone or with the office of the attorney who represented him and his mother in recent bankruptcy proceedings.

Anthony Magistro, who owns the other Don Carmelo's locations and the company trademark, said he has no plans to purchase the Farnam location but that the spot could reopen as a Don Carmelo's if a new owner signs a licensing agreement with him. John Magistro is his brother.

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EAT THE WORM OPENS

Eat the Worm — The new tequila bar and quick-serve, open-late taqueria from the folks behind O Dining — opened quietly, with a limited menu, late last week at 1213 Howard St.

The new eatery retains the old black-and-white floor tile and the counter setup from the former Zio's but adds some modern styling, a long bar and bright orange paint. Co-owner Natalie Wang said it is open for lunch, dinner and late night daily, though Sunday hours are still being finalized.

“We are keeping the kitchen open until 1 a.m. weekdays and 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays,” she said. “Summer kitchen hours will likely be later if Omaha supports the idea of a round-the-clock Old Market.”

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JULIO'S HITS THE ROAD

The west Omaha Julio's, near 130th Street and West Center Road, will close at midnight Saturday and move about seven blocks east to its new digs at 2820 S. 123rd Court, the former LaFonda's.

“(This weekend) is the last opportunity to come and write on the wall and get a memento,” said co-owner Rick Fox. He said the restaurant should open in its new location by Wednesday.

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BRUNCH GETS SQUIRRELY

Chatty Squirrel, the quick-serve cafe and bakery at 9631 Giles Road in La Vista, has added full-service Sunday brunches.

“We thought it's nicer for everyone to have sit-down service,” said owner M.J. Zaremba, who now offers brunch items with table service from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays. The menu so far has included everything from eggs Benedict and shrimp and grits to chicken crepes and crème brulée French toast.

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A SMASHING OPENING

The Denver-based chain Smashburger smashes into Nebraska today with the opening of its first Omaha location.

The new quick-serve restaurant at 12330 K Plaza, in the L Street Marketplace near 120th and L Streets, is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. It features the chain's signature third- and half-pound Angus burgers. The name's a reference to how they are made: by smashing them onto a very hot flat grill.

As a nod to Nebraska, the eatery will offer a Husker version topped with A-1 steak sauce, sautéed mushrooms, haystack onions, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. The restaurant also has pledged to donate $1 to the TeamMates mentoring program for every Husker Smashburger it sells on Husker football game days.

Restaurant franchise company Reload hopes to open nine more Smashburgers in the Omaha and Lincoln markets in the next four years.

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STEAKS FOR A CURE

Sullivan's Steakhouse will donate $5 from every $39.95 three-course dinner it sells now through Nov. 23 to the Susan G. Komen Foundation for breast cancer research.

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WINE DINNER, ITALIAN FAMILY-STYLE

Lo Sole Mio celebrates Italian Heritage Month with Sicilian cabaret singer Carmelita De Laguardia, folk dancing and a wine dinner on Thursday at 6:30 p.m. in its Villa, 3020 S. 32nd. Ave. From antipasto to dessert, the dinner will be served family-style. Cost is $65 per person, including tax and tip. For reservations, call 345-5656.

— Nichole Aksamit

Got restaurant news, questions or tips? Call food writer Nichole Aksamit at 444-1069, or e-mail nichole.aksamit@owh.com. Dining Notes runs Fridays.